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Showing posts with label Fashion Show. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fashion Show. Show all posts
Monday, 31 March 2014
Friday, 28 March 2014
The Coveteur co-founder goes back to her designer roots: Erin Kleinberg Fall 2014
A week after Toronto Fashion Week, one of the city’s fashion stars made her return to the runway after a three-year hiatus. In case you need a refresh, The Coveteur co-founder Erin Kleinberg used to be a designer. Back in the mid-oughts, she became a bright young thing when stars like Mischa Barton, Blake Lively and Kim Kardashian were spotted in her low-key wares. For the next few years, she sold worldwide at Holt Renfrew, Barney’s, Nordstrom and others until putting the collection on hold to dominate the industry in another way: creeping the designer-filled closets of fashion’s elite.
Fast-forward to today and Kleinberg is back to her former steez, re-launching her brand of casual separates for the everygirl. “I missed creating and dressing my friends. I have been yearning to get back to it for some time now,” she says. “I love seeing women wearing my clothing and making them feel awesome.”
On Tuesday night at The Spoke Club, she showed an 18-look collection of nubby sweaters, maxi dresses, leather-trimmed tunics and sequined separates. As evidenced by the friend-filled crowd, the collection will do best with girls who dig fashion, but aren’t to be called upon for the correct spelling of Demeulemeester. “It’s really about effortless chic,” she says.
Tuesday, 25 March 2014
Deconstructed beehives and luminous skin dial up the romance for Fall:Mikael D backstage beauty
As runway light bounced off intricate embroidery at the Mikael D Fall 2014 show, the skin gleamed just the same. M.A.C senior artist Jane McKay drew inspiration from the opulence of Baroque textures and designed a fresh-yet-glamorous look. Radiance was an important element in the makeup: “It’s all about the play of light bouncing off the skin,” said Ricky Boudreau, M.A.C senior cosmetics trainer, who lead the team backstage.
Models’ skin was moisturized with Strobe Cream and kept lustrous with a light application of Mineralize Moisture Foundation and Concealer. Boudreau softly sculpted the cheeks with Sculpt Powder and added an additional hit of illumination with an iridescent loose powder—“Silver Dusk”—applied around the eye, from brow to cheekbone. Brows were simply groomed with Brow Set in “Clear.” Finally, eyelids were drenched in bronzed gold tones and intensified with a set of MAC #33 lashes and multiple coats of mascara. Boudreau pressed a layer of “Half & Half” lipstick into the lips with his fingers for a neutral pout.
Over at the hair station, lead stylist Paul Pereira was bringing hair to new heights with a modern twist on an iconic ’60s style: the beehive. After seeing the ornate Mikael D garments, Pereira decided that he wanted to “embrace the high glamour, but in a more relaxed way.” Using the Session Label line by Schwarzkopf OSIS+, he prepped models’ strands with Sea Salt Spray to give an initial grit and hold. To create a strong base, hot rollers were placed in a small back section just underneath the crown; those curls were then teased and tucked into a roll. Plenty of disheveled texture was added by backcombing several sections with a tail comb. These sections were swept over the “rolled” base, and the beehive took form. Pereira continuously worked with Extra Hold Hairspray to mould the shape and achieve more volume. To polish off the messy height, the front section of hair was elegantly smoothed to one side and secured behind the ear.
The nails—long and oval—were just as elegant, yet understated. The team from Sparks Salon used OPI gel polishes in “Alpine Snow” and “Did You Ear About Van Gogh?” to create a white crescent moon shape and a nude base, respectively. A dainty crystal gem adorned the middle of each crescent to play up the designer’s couture-like creations.
Friday, 14 March 2014
Antonio Azzuolo Fall 2014: The bespoke men’s tailor delves into womenswear for next season
Tailors tend to breed talented offspring. Dries Van Noten, Domenico Dolce, Emmanuel Ungaro—they’re all cut from families of exacting cloth. Menswear designer Antonio Azzuolo is part of that club, having been raised by two in Montreal. After years in the business (15 in creative roles at Ralph Lauren, Hermès, Gap and Kenneth Cole, and six at the helm of his own bespoke line) he launched womenswear for Fall 2014, bringing old school tailoring techniques into new territory for next season. In his post-show Q&A with ROM curator Alexandra Palmer last night in Toronto, Azzuolo spoke of adaptation—something he’s clearly done in this collection. His full canvas method (all the handiwork goes on below the surface, allowing for the outside to maintain perfect shape) was applied to both men’s and women’s belted coats. Wool culottes were worn overtop loose-fitting trousers for understated statement making effect. Meanwhile, a sixties mod feel was woven through, with graphic alpaca sweaters done in magenta, maroon and white with unfinished hems which were layered over perfect white shirts.
Azzuolo also brought up the kind of buzzy dualities—masculine/feminine, past/future, tradition/novelty, structured/unstructured—often referenced in press releases. But while often they sound like fluff, here they felt earnest connectors to a strong first collection.
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